HOW TO SELECT A GIA DROP CUT DIAMOND?

TIPS FOR SELECTING THE PERFECT GIA DROP CUT DIAMOND

With its elegant, tapered lines, the DROP shaped diamond is an elegant and flattering choice for an engagement ring. Here are the basics for choosing the perfect pear shape.

Learn the anatomy of a pear-shaped diamond
    Look for symmetry in a pear-shaped diamond
      The ideal length-width ratio is the ratio you prefer
        Check culet placement and location of inclusions
          Make sure the table is centered on a pear-shaped diamond
            Avoid a bow tie on a pear-shaped diamond
              Choose a setting that protects the tip of your pear-shaped diamond

                Looking up or down? You decide how to wear the pear shaped diamond.

                1-) Learn the anatomy of a teardrop-shaped diamond

                Jewelers consider the Pear-shaped diamond to be a "fancy shape," meaning a shape other than round. Reminiscent of a teardrop, the Pear-shaped diamond combines the best of round and marquise shapes.

                You should know the parts of the pear shaped diamond as they contribute to its beauty. Then you can buy the pear shaped diamond engagement ring with a discerning eye.

                Look at the diamond face up and notice its contours. A pear-shaped diamond should have gently rounded shoulders and wings. The wings should form attractive arches. Too flat will make the stone appear too narrow. Too round will make it appear short and stubby.

                A pair of bejeweled Teardrops: A 4.06-carat (ct) yellow Teardrop-shaped diamond is set against a 3.02-carat colorless diamond. The band extends from 18K white gold to yellow gold, reflecting the colors of the stones.

                The teardrop shaped diamond, like the round brilliant diamond, is designed to offer the most sparkle and brilliance. Here are the names of the important parts of a faceted diamond that you should know and that are used in this blog:

                • Culet: A culet is a small surface at the bottom of the pavilion of a finished gem intended to prevent the fragile tip from breaking and wearing away. Often called a closed culet, some gems do not have facets in this area.
                • Crown: The upper part of a jewel that sits above the girdle.
                • Girdle: A narrow band surrounding the edge of the plane separating the crown from the pavilion.
                • Pavilion: The part of a polished jewel that lies below the girdle. The purpose of the pavilion's edges is to reflect light toward the crown.
                • Table: A large facet in the centre of the crown.

                A pear-shaped diamond, like many other fancy shapes (like a marquise or heart shape), tends to retain more color than a round diamond, so it's best to choose a diamond that ranks higher on the GIA color scale or a fancy colored diamond.

                2-) Look for symmetry in a teardrop-shaped diamond

                Symmetry is key to the overall beauty of gemstones, but it is even more important in some fancy shaped diamonds, such as oval diamonds, heart shaped diamonds, marquise diamonds and pear shaped diamonds.

                To determine if a teardrop diamond is symmetrical, draw an imaginary line along the length of the gem and examine the two halves. The closer they mirror each other, the better the symmetry.

                Notice in the illustration below how the shoulders, bellies, and wings are the same on both sides of the line, and how the shape, size, and placement of the facets on each half of the stone mirror each other. This is an ideal Teardrop shape. You can use the illustration as a guide when choosing a Teardrop diamond.

                When evaluating the symmetry of fancy shaped diamonds, including Teardrop shapes, GIA diamond graders also look for things like balance and smooth lines. Some types of asymmetry and uneven proportions are considered by many in the jewelry trade to have a negative impact on the appearance of a Teardrop shaped diamond. These include:

                • High shoulders
                • Straight wings
                • Inflated wings
                • Undefined points

                Irregular shoulders and irregular wings are other variations that will spoil the appearance of a Teardrop diamond. Both are included in the drawing below.

                The irregular lines of this Teardrop shape highlight the asymmetry of its shoulders, belly, and wings. You may want to avoid this type of diamond cut. Illustration: GIA

                3-) The ideal length-width ratio is the ratio you prefer.

                You may come across the phrase "length-to-width ratio" (a comparison of the length and width of the outline of many fancy-shaped diamonds, determined by dividing the diamond's length by its width, expressed as a ratio such as 1.75:1). Many experts prefer a length-to-width ratio of around 1.50 to 1.75:1. Others in the industry believe that one ratio is not enough to convey the beauty of a diamond. You may want to let your heart and eyes guide you.

                Falling in love with any diamond is about more than just finding the perfect symmetry and length to width ratio. Are you in love with this 0.88ct Pear-shaped diamond?

                4-) Check the culet settlement and the location of the ruins

                The placement of a cusp on a Pear shaped diamond can affect its appearance. It should be the same distance from both sides of the diamond. A cusp that is off-center will affect the symmetry of the diamond and will likely make it less attractive. In some Pear shapes, the cusp is incorporated into a spine line that runs the length of the diamond where the pavilion edges meet. Like the cusp, the spine line should be an equal distance from both sides of the diamond.

                This Teardrop diamond has an off-center culet. It should be placed symmetrically at the same distance from each side of the gem. Illustration: GIA
                Also look for any inclusions, especially near the tip of the diamond, as this is the area most susceptible to damage. Additionally, if the table surface of a pear shaped diamond is larger, inclusions may be more noticeable, so good clarity is a consideration.

                5-) Make sure the table is centered on a teardrop-shaped diamond

                A poorly placed table surface can also make a Teardrop diamond appear less attractive. For maximum brilliance and fire, the table should be centered on the line of symmetry.

                If the table is off-center, the crown facets on one side of a pear-shaped diamond will appear larger than the facets on the opposite side. Illustration: GIA

                6-) Avoid bow ties on teardrop-shaped diamonds

                Most pear shaped diamonds display a dark pattern resembling a bow tie. This pattern typically runs the width of the stone from the center of the table. The bow tie on a well cut pear shaped diamond should be minimal, but there will still be good contrast between the light and dark areas of the stone.

                The bowtie can range from light gray to black. The darker or larger it is, the more it reduces the upward appearance of a pear-shaped diamond. The bowtie darkens as the difference between the length and width of the diamond increases, and the bowtie angle changes (the angle measured between the main surface plane of the bowtie and the table plane) become more extreme.

                If you find the bowtie effect distracting, be sure to examine pear-shaped diamonds from different angles in the lighting conditions the engagement ring will be worn in. You may not be able to avoid the bowtie entirely, but you should find a stone with subtlety in it.

                These Teardrop diamonds showcase the bowtie effect, which is the dark area that runs across the width of each stone.

                7-) Choose a setting that protects the tip of the teardrop diamond

                The most vulnerable part of a pear-shaped diamond is the point. This area can be protected by placing a V-prong over the point or by choosing a bezel setting around the entire stone.

                A V-prong protects the vulnerable point of this 8.25ct pear-shaped diamond. Four additional prongs hold the diamond securely in place.

                8-) Are you looking up or down? You decide how to wear the teardrop diamond

                The traditional way to wear a teardrop diamond engagement ring is to have the tip pointing away from you (down). According to many in the profession, this makes the finger appear thinner. However, tradition has its limits. Some brides choose to wear this shape with the tip pointing toward them (up). Others prefer a horizontal setting, which gives this classic diamond shape a different, contemporary look.

                As with all matters of the heart, let yourself decide which way the Drop will point.

                Whether the 1.34ct pear-shaped diamond points toward you or away, an engagement ring like this will look stunning on your finger. The center stone is surrounded by 43 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 0.41 carats and a 1.03 carat sapphire.

                One of the most elegant of all the fancy shapes, the Teardrop diamond has both the grace of a single teardrop and the power of the brightest star. While there are many factors to consider when looking for the perfect stone for your diamond engagement ring, it is a journey worth taking. When deciding between different Teardrop diamonds, the overall appearance is more important than the specific details of proportion. Often, what makes a Teardrop diamond appealing is a matter of personal taste. Enjoy looking at different Teardrop diamond engagement rings until you fall in love with the perfect one.