HOW TO SELECT A GIA PRINCESS CUT DIAMOND?

If you are looking for a diamond with a lot of character, the princess cut diamond may be perfect for you as it is a bit less traditional than the standard round brilliant cut.

What is a princess cut diamond?

A relative newcomer to the diamond universe, the princess cut was created in 1981 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itskowitz. GIA grading reports describe princess cut diamonds as square modified diamonds, which sets them apart from the stepped cut facet arrangements you find in other square diamonds, such as the Asscher cut. A princess cut diamond can be rectangular or tapered. The princess cut is shaped like an upside-down pyramid, with most of its weight in the pavilion (bottom), so when viewed face up, the finished diamond may appear smaller than another diamond of a different shape but similar carat weight.

The number of facets and the facet arrangement on the pavilion and crown can vary greatly, which can create a wide variation in sparkle depending on how much it shines and the sparkle pattern.

Princess-cut diamonds can be striking center stones in engagement rings. They are attractive alternatives to the standard round brilliant. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA.

Why are princess cut diamonds so popular?

In a showcase full of round brilliants and emerald cut diamonds, the princess cut can stand out as something different, something beautiful, something out of the ordinary. Brides-to-be looking for something unconventional are often attracted to this shape and cut style.

What should be considered in princess cut diamonds?

• Shape: The length/width ratio of a square princess cut does not exceed 1:05:1. Princess cuts with uneven sides or uneven proportions are less attractive.
• Symmetry: The symmetry of the facets helps create the beauty of the cut. You can look for this by drawing an imaginary line along the length of the diamond and seeing if the facets on the right and left halves are the same shape and size. Also look at all the points where the facets meet and if there are any missing or extra facets. Then draw an imaginary horizontal line across the diamond and see if the facets on the top and bottom halves are symmetrical. The more symmetrical the facets, the more attractive the diamond.
• Scintillation: Balanced contrast of light and dark patterns in the table and on the surfaces is important. A stone that is too light or too dark is usually not as attractive as one that has a nice balance.

• It is easy to see the symmetry of the large facets of this princess cut diamond. The diamond also has a desirable balance of light and dark areas.
• Avoid pavilion protrusion: look at the diamond from the side with a 10x magnifying glass. The pavilion should slope gently from the girdle to the cusp. If the slope is steep, it can create a pavilion protrusion, making the stone appear darker and adding extra weight.

• It's easy to spot the pavilion protrusion on the right side of this princess-cut diamond. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA.
• Don't expect to see a cuneiform, the small horizontal facet at the tip of the pavilion, as you would see on a standard round brilliant cut diamond. The absence of a cuneiform means that the pavilion point is susceptible to chipping, which can be prevented with proper setting.

What are the popular setting styles for princess cut diamonds?
Princess cuts are most often mounted as solitary stones in four-prong settings, but bezel settings are also popular. Any of these setting styles will help protect the corners from chipping.

Which side stones complement a princess cut diamond?

Triangles, trilliants, baguettes and tapered baguettes used as side stones can enhance the beauty of the princess cut.