DON'T MAKE THESE EMERALD CUTTING MISTAKES!

1. Not Knowing the Emerald Cut Quality

Do emerald cut rings sparkle?

Not really, more of a shine than a sparkle. Emeralds aren’t meant to be disco balls like other shapes. Instead, they’re meant to have a simple, mirror-like elegance. In fact, the shine of an emerald has been called the “hall of mirrors”! So if “sparkle” is your ultimate goal, go for round stones. But if you like a gorgeous, over-the-top shine, then emeralds are for you.

What is the perfect emerald cut diamond?

The perfect emerald cut diamond is white, clear to the eye, and has a beautiful “hall of mirrors.” So, what are those halls of mirrors you keep hearing about? They are the light and dark stripes on either side of the emerald table. These are important because in order for an emerald to sparkle, the stone needs to have a contrast that will shine back and forth. Otherwise, the stone can appear “dead.” Likewise, if there is too much darkness in the stone (often in a “black box” shape), it can detract from the beauty. So, if you want to look for one of the hall mirrors you should choose.

2. Not Taking Openness Seriously

Emeralds are “step” cut diamonds, meaning they have rectangular and trapezoidal (slanted) shaped faces. Step cut stones (which can also have asscher added ) show blemishes and pimples more easily than “round” or “brilliant” cut diamonds (all other shapes except emerald and asscher). As a result, couples who choose emerald cuts should choose a higher clarity. So which clarity should you choose? Let’s explore:

What is VVS?

VS and VVS are the highest clarity grades available. The diamond clarity scale starts at Flawless and ends at Included. Both the VVS and VS tiers contain two grades each: VVS1/VVS2 and VS1/VS2. VVS is more flawless than VS, and 1 is more flawless than 2. So the order is VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2. There are a lot of acronyms that can seem a little daunting, but here’s a secret: They literally mean “very light” and “very very light.” LAUGH OUT LOUD! So don’t worry if all the letters get you down. You’ll know that “very light” actually means there are no inclusions in the stone.

The distinction between these two layers is very important in emerald cuts, as it usually takes a minimum of VS1 to be eye clean. So you’ll need to remember to set your filter to VS1+ (VS2s are not allowed!). Then, when looking through stones, make sure that any VS1 you’re considering is actually eye clean (or email me to double-check!). Fortunately, VVS1 and VVS2 are almost always eye clean (only large stones will show visible involvement at this level).

Lab Diamond Pairs: Be sure to pay attention to the “crystal tension” in your emerald; this is especially noticeable in these cuts. Crystal tension is caused by the stone growing too quickly and looks like a “striped” window. It is unsightly and unfortunately does not appear in the certification of a stone (it can even happen in VVS stones). This only happens in lab stones.

In emerald cut diamonds, which is more important: color or clarity?

Clarity is more important because inclusions in emerald shapes can be easily seen and can be masked by gold. Since emeralds have an iconic shine and no shimmer that hides the inclusions, clarity should be your first priority. Definitely VS1+ or VVS! But color comes second because nearly colorless tones like H and I can be masked by setting the jewelry in yellow or rose gold. If you are setting a white metal like white gold, palladium or platinum, you will still need a G+ color to appear white-white.

3. Not Taking Color Seriously Enough

Do emerald cuts show color?

Yes, emerald cut diamonds show more color than other shapes. This is because they don’t have that dazzling sparkle that can ruin the color of emeralds! In fact, the emerald shape was originally designed to actually expand the color of colored gems like emeralds. And those long facets do the same for diamonds. As a result, while most shapes allow for an H+ color to show through as “white,” emeralds really need a G+ in most sizes (unless set in yellow or rose gold).

Pro tip: If you’re prioritizing carat weight over color, choosing an emerald with significant contrast will cause the color to fade somewhat, so choosing a dramatic emerald with lots of contrast (but no black box) can help.

For Man-Made Diamonds: Looking for white gold but don’t want a warm center stone? Be sure to check out “blue nuance” diamonds in HIJ colors. They are a vibrant ice blue rather than warm, and look gorgeous in white metals. Blue nuance is only present in lab-created diamonds.

4. Let's Compare Emerald Cut with Other Cuts

Does an emerald cut diamond appear larger?

Yes, emerald shaped diamonds tend to look a bit larger than other shapes due to their long length and beautiful spread. Emerald cuts carry their weight in their diameter, unless they are Princess cuts or cushion cuts, which carry their weight in their depth. You can be sure to get a good spread by ensuring your emerald is between 60-67% deep (just don’t give up the contrast of the mirror hallway by choosing a stone that is too shallow)! You can learn more about the industry’s general guidelines for emeralds.

Is the emerald cut more expensive?

Emerald cuts are usually more expensive than other diamonds of the same size because you need to choose a higher color and clarity to look white and clean. However, if all other qualities are equal (for example, G/VVS2 Emerald vs. G/VVS2 Round), the emerald will be cheaper. This is because emeralds do not waste as much rough gem crystal as round cuts and are less in demand than round cuts. So if you have already decided to go G/VVS, emeralds can save you money! However, if you are undecided, definitely compare mid-range rounds to high-end emeralds to check the value. Or email me to send you a selection that is within your budget!

Is an emerald cut the same way as a baguette?

No, emeralds and baguettes are cousins. The baguette cut is longer and thinner than the emerald, and has sharper corners. It also has a few fewer facets. Traditionally, baguette-cut diamonds are used as side or accent stones, while emeralds are the center stones. However, we have seen a few avant-garde designers using baguettes for sleek, modern center stones!

What is the difference between emerald cut and radiant cut?

Emeralds and radiants have the same outline, but emeralds are step cut, while radiants are brilliant cut. This means that emeralds display a gorgeous shine, while radiants display true “sparkle.” They can have a sparkling “crushed ice” sparkle or a “chunky” brilliant sparkle. Both shapes are rectangular with cropped corners. So emeralds are understatedly elegant, while radiants are extremely showy. Both are beautiful in their own right! Which do you prefer?