When you search for a diamond solitaire stone, you start with the first color… Let's examine this topic a little.
One of the most common misconceptions when looking for a solitaire ring is the belief that rings are colorless (DEF) diamonds, as they exhibit better brilliance than diamonds with lower color.
In reality, the determining factor in a diamond's beauty is its cut quality and not its color.
If you’re a practical person like me, there’s no need to spend more money on a feature (color) that your eyes can’t detect. Instead, consider spending your budget on a higher carat size where the visual impact will be much greater.
To get the best value for your money, I definitely recommend purchasing a high IDEAL cut diamond, this way you can lower the color a bit and increase the carat size a bit.
#1: Diamond Shape and Cut Style
Due to different cutting styles, the optical properties of a diamond vary from one cut shape to another. As a result, some shapes are more likely to “show” their natural body color.
Comparison of 3 GIA grade H color diamonds from above, photos taken with the same camera in the same environment, in the same light, under equal conditions…
Which one looks the “whitest”?
This phenomenon is typically found in elongated shapes such as ovals, marquises, and teardrops, where color saturation is easily seen near the pointed ends.
Similarly, step cuts like Asscher and emeralds have less brilliance and sparkle than round brilliants, which will help mask the body color.
Therefore, my general recommendation is minimum G color outside the circles and minimum H color inside the circles.
#2 Cut Quality: Better Light Return = Whiter Appearance
A well-cut diamond with stronger light return will be visually brighter than a poorly cut diamond.
When diamonds are cut with optimum proportions and precision, they have the ability to produce better fire, sparkle and brilliance.
Essentially, when light hits a well-cut diamond, the surfaces light up, creating brilliance that helps mask the diamond's body color.
In a poorly cut diamond with steep/deep proportions, the body color will be more apparent due to light leakage.
That’s why I always emphasize the importance of cut quality, as its benefits are multi-faceted. A better cut quality increases the brilliance of the diamond, helps mask the color, and distracts the eye from inclusions. Be sure to check it out!
Important note: color grading is done from the reverse side of the diamond, but we always see the top. I think what I wrote is starting to make a little more sense now.
Take a look at the comparison below of 3 round brilliant diamonds of different cut quality. The one on the left is an ideal cut, the other two are average. Although they are all graded H, poorly cut diamonds show color tones more easily.
#3: Gold Color Mounting
Can you see how the facets of the stone pick up color from the gold fabric strip at the bottom of the ring?
The facets of a diamond act like a “set of mirrors,” reflecting details of the surrounding environment. As a result, your choice of metal for the setting will directly impact the diamond’s appearance.
If you’re planning on purchasing a yellow gold ring, the good news is that you can have more leeway with lower color grades. This is because the color of the diamond is much more easily noticeable when set against a contrasting background.
If the stone is to be set against a yellow background, the distinction will be much less noticeable as the contrast is less. In such scenarios, the yellow tone of HI color diamonds blends better in yellow gold settings than in white gold settings.
On the other hand, if you don't like the color and want the look of a white ring, then common sense will tell you that you should purchase a white gold or platinum setting.
Real life engagement rings with D color center stones in the same settings.
In the examples above, I want to draw your attention to the yellow gold diamond ring. Can you see that the internal reflections actually appear yellowish when compared to the other diamond in the white gold setting?
If you set a DE or F colour diamond in an 18k yellow gold setting, the icy white colour of these colours will now turn into a J or K tone. In my opinion, this would be a waste of money and defeats the purpose of purchasing a high colour diamond in the first place.
Also, a DE or F color diamond may look “weird” in a yellow gold setting due to a subtle color difference.