Things to consider when choosing an OVAL Cut Diamond

OVAL CUT DIAMOND: 5 TIPS with Pictures to Choose the Right One

Oval cut diamonds are stunning and appear larger than diamonds of similar carat weight! However, since GIA does not classify oval cut diamonds, the information we provide below is invaluable.

There are extra factors to consider to get the most sparkling, beautiful Oval Diamond stone. In this article, we will teach you how to spot good contrast and brilliance, how to avoid ugly Oval Diamond bowties and dark tips, and also all about Oval Cut Diamond Fisheyes!

How to choose an oval diamond?

  1. Choose a stone with some contrast
  2. Avoid dark or watery bows and ends
  3. Choose between crushed ice oval and live oval
  4. Choose a nice and pretty shape!
  5. Avoid fish eyes and weird reflections

Want to learn more? Read on…

Tip #1: Buy Oval Cut Diamonds with Equal Contrast/Brightness

(left) washed out; (center) equal contrast/brightness oval; (right) too much contrast

Choose an oval-cut diamond with evenly spaced “contrast” (dark areas in the diamond) and “brightness” (white sparkle in the diamond). Yes, you heard right! You actually want your diamond to have some dark areas, otherwise the sparkle of the stone won’t come through as well.

In other words, contrast makes your diamond more beautiful, more interesting and more dramatic!

Contrast also helps to hide darker bows and prongs, which is especially important in an oval diamond (more on that later :). So when looking for the best oval cut diamond, make sure your stone provides a good dark contrast to your beautiful white sparkle!

Pro tip: Watch the diamond’s facets as your stone spins. Do they stay one color or do they go from dark to light? Trust us, you want the flash and shine.

Tip #2: Learn About Oval Diamond Bow Ties

Too much dark contrast that looks like a black bow tie in the middle of your oval cut diamond is not attractive at all, avoid this! Similarly, watery, washed out bow ties are not very flattering. You want a bow tie area with equal contrast and brightness (there it is again!) I get oval diamond bow tie questions all the time and there is a lot of misinformation out there; let’s clear it up.

(left) water bow tie; (center) well-balanced bow tie field; (right) dark bow tie

Do all oval diamonds have a bow tie?

Yes, all oval cut diamonds have a bow tie. As a result of the lovely long length of this cut, the bow tie of an oval cut diamond is in the middle! By necessity, the oval faces are shorter in width and longer in length. So the middle of an oval diamond will always look different from the ends!

What causes a bow tie on an oval diamond?

Oval diamonds are shorter in width and steeper in length, creating a bow tie. These differences in depth and angles cause light to refract differently at the center and ends of the oval. So, if a diamond cutter is not careful, these deep centers can end up creating a dark bow tie!

Is the bow tie on the diamond bad?

Yes, a bowtie that is too dark or watery can look pretty bad. The goal is to look for a stone that the cutter blends into the bowtie. This means looking for a stone that has both contrast and brilliance, not just in the bowtie area but also at the tips.

Tip #3: Oddities of the Oval Cut Diamond Style

Oval Diamonds are considered the “fancy” shape, and for good reason! There are several different shapes and cutting styles to choose from! The prong style, the pavilion main style (we like to call it “star sparkle”), the length ratio, and the shoulder curve… the list goes on!

Avoid dark tips

Dark tips detract from the beauty of your stone. This is most common in Diamonds with one flat facet on each tip and very rarely in stones with multi-faceted tips. This is because it is easier to break up the extreme dark contrast with more angles and facets. This does not mean you should throw out all ovals with one-faceted tips; just to learn what to look for. Watch a 360° video of your stone closely; do the tips appear dark as it spins? If so, reject them! Dark tips detract from the sparkle and brilliance.

Dark oval tips (left); bright transparent oval tips (center); Color concentration in oval tips (right)

Avoid inconsistent colors on your oval tips!

Don’t buy a diamond that has more heat at the tips than the center. Since the tips of diamonds are shallower than the center (and therefore have less chance of refracting light), they usually show more color. So, when you’re looking at those beautiful spinning sparklers, take a look at the color of the tips compared to the core. Are they the same? Or is there a concentration of heat at the tips? If the tips look warmer than the rest of the diamond, skip them; they’re cheap stones. Consistency of color is key!

Oval Diamond Star Sparkle Style

Ovals can be cut with 4, 6 or 8 pavilion outlines (resembling stars with 4, 6 or 8 rays). No one cut style is better than another; it's all personal preference! Some people prefer the look of 4 rays with big, bold facets, others like the interesting pattern of 6 (6s are rare!) and many prefer the vibrancy and bright sparkle of 8 (this is the most common cut). Check them out here, which is your favorite?

Main Diamonds of pavilions 4, 6 and 8 from left to right

Oval cut Diamond shoulder curve

Choosing a graceful shoulder curve enhances both beauty and value. The shoulder curve of a diamond is the arc between the navel (bow tie area) and the prongs. An ideal oval cut diamond has a soft and curvy shoulder. However, shoulders can also appear flat (approaching a marquise look) or square/heavy (approaching a long cushion look). So take some time and look at the outline of your oval. Is it soft and appealing? Or does it feel bulky or too hard? You choose an oval based on its shape; so choose the one you like!

(left) large shoulders; well-proportioned oval; straight shoulders (right)

Tip 4: Length-Width Ratio in Ovals

The length-to-width ratio indicates how long and thin or wide and full your oval cut diamond will be. While it may sound a bit technical and complicated, it’s actually just a diamond’s length divided by its width. That’s it!

What is the best rate for an Oval Diamond?

Most people say that the ideal length-to-width ratio for an oval is 1.35-1.50. Diamonds that fall within this range will not be too round or too pointed! The lower the ratio, the fuller the oval. Likewise, the higher the ratio, the skinnier it will be! One advantage of a higher length-to-width oval ratio is that thin ovals appear larger than their carat weight due to their length. However, it all comes down to personal preference. Some people prefer rounder ovals (we call the extreme end a roval – a rounded oval) while the other extreme prefers a very long, thin oval (we call it a moval – a marquise oval). These outliers can have a lot of personality!

Length-to-width ratios of 1.35, 1.40, 1.45 and 1.50

Tip #5: Oval Cut Diamond Fisheye and Reflections

Nothing looks worse than a perfect oval on paper filled with random weird reflections.

OK, there are probably a few worse things, but the point still stands. So to get the best oval, you need to know what you're looking for.

Fisheye is when a diamond's girdle (well outside the rim) reflects strangely below its table, creating a ghostly white ring. Not very attractive; avoid these.

Oval cut diamonds can also show other strange reflections due to their length. So look under the table (the big part at the top) as you watch the diamond spin. Are there any strange reflections that are ruining your sparkle? Avoid these too.

The best ovals will have sharp, clean surfaces that display, you guessed it, brightness and contrast.

Fish eyes and strange reflections in oval cut diamonds

Can you help me find the best oval cut diamond?

Definitely...
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